Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris

I've been a fan of Clotilde Dusoulier for some time, since I found her wonderful blog, chocolatenandzucchini several years ago. Clotilde has now written several books, but I've never come across any in Australia before. You can only imagine how quickly I snapped up a remaindered copy of Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris on a recent trip to my favourite remainder store, Clouston and Hall in Canberra- but then I don't think I've ever left their shop empty handed.

Clotilde Dusoulier is a native Parisian who endlessly explores her own city, and here in Edible Adventures she is kind enough to share her treasures with the rest of us. I devoured this book on our car trip home from Canberra. Written for Americans, there is a lot of basic information- don't call waiters garcon, or snap your fingers (really does anyone actually do that?), try to use some French, especially in greetings, and if you don't have a reservation you will often miss out on eating at the best restaurants during the busy periods- particularly Friday and Saturday nights. Clotilde helpfully suggests a typical conversation for booking a table in a restaurant. Further advice is scattered throughout the book- favourite picnic spots, tips on navigating the different supermarkets, and seasonal treats available throughout the year.

This 2008 book is divided into two main sections. The first Eats lists Clotilde's restaurant suggestions for each of the 20 arrondissements in central Paris. Her suggestions cover brunch, lunch and dinner suggestions ranging from casual to gastronomic dining experiences, as well as salon de thes and wine bars. There is something there for every taste and every budget.

Part two, Shops, covers so much. Markets. Bakeries. Pastry shops. Chocolate shops. Candy (lolly) shops. Ice Cream shops. Speciality providores for cheese, meats, fish, spices, teas and honey. What else could you want?

I'm familiar with many of the shops that she lists and agree fully with her choices. I'm more than happy to try some of Clotilde's suggestions on my upcoming trip. Some that particularly called to me:

Semiliquid caramel bites at Patrick Roger (the Savage glimpsed on Patrick Roger's site). OMG. I am so there.

The "remarkable" marron glaces at Debauve and Gallais, about which I only learnt this week from the equally remarkable Carol at Paris Breakfast.

The Violette and Quartre Epices at Belgian master Pierre Marcolini. Clotilde advises that the French believe Belgian chocolates to be "too rich, too sweet, and, well, a bit pedestrian", but that Pierre's chocolates are so good he has made a name for himself in Paris. She also recommends his pates de fruits and his chocolate-covered guimauves (marshmallows). I don't normally like marshmallows but Parisian marshmallows are the bomb.

Delicabar, the first floor restaurant at Le Bon Marche, quite close to our flat, where the outdoor patio is an oasis for chic summertime lunches.

The specialty loaves at Eric Kayser- hazelnut and turmeric, fresh fig- or the bread of the month.

When I pop into Poilane for an apple turnover/chausson aux pommes, I will want to try the punitions too, "pale blond butter cookies worth selling your soul for".

If we get to Du Pain et des Idees (they have a gorgeous website too, with an aural slice of Paris boulangerie chatter) I would love to try the stuffed bread rolls- goats cheese and figs, banana and chocolate or apple and almond.

And if we venture back to Montmartre this trip then perhaps we could take in a slice of lemon pound cake (quatre-quart au citron) or a goat cheese and hazelnut bread at Coquelicot.

Perhaps when Mr Wicker goes to Stohrer to try their exemplary eclairs, I will need to sample the baba au rhum (Nicolas Stohrer is said to have introduced it in France whilst he was pastry chef to Louis XV, his patisserie is the oldest in Paris, trading since 1730!) or the house speciality of puits d'amour (well of love) a pillow-shaped, caramelized custard tart named after a late-nineteenth century operetta.

Pain de Sucre has sublime tartlets- fig and thyme, ricotta and wild strawberries) and revamped classics-orange flower callison or a mango eclair.

Clotilde names Pierre Herme as her macaron provider of choice. They were my favourites last time too. "A relentless alchemist of flavours..... his luxurious and whimsical creations are a feast for the eye, the taste buds, and the intellect Herme was the first to introduce fashion concepts into the stiff world of French patisserie."

I'm not sure if we'll make it to the 9th to find Aurore-Capucine, but their crackled macarons sound extraordinary, as does a coconut and geranium dome or a puffy raspberry turnover, and their products are a riot of colour, or as Clotilde says "a profoundly handcrafted, flamboyant look, as if assembled from velvet, silk, and fake pearls by an eccentric duchess".

Whilst in the 9th Arnaud Delmontel may provide us with a feuillete de seigle au miel- a flaky roll made with rye flour and slightly sweetened with honey, or brilliantly simple inventions such as a lemon turnover called bichon and glossy edible sculptures!

I'm quite keen to try some of Paris's more exotic treats this time- La Cafe Maure at La Grande Mosque de Paris appeals. As does La Bague de Kenza, serving Algerian style pastries, "aromatic delights filled with nuts, figs, or dates, and flavoured with honey, rose water, orange blossom, mint, citrus or vanilla." Yes please.

I saw Ble Sucre on French Food Safari recently, it looks magnificent, and well worth the trek out to the 12th to try the best madeleines in Paris. Clotilde tells us that they sell perfectly done classics with a handful of original creations too. She has apparently fallen head over heels for the chocolate bar with crunchy specks of salted caramel, and why not.

Edible Adventures in Paris really has something for everyone planning a trip to Paris. Indeed, we're positively spoilt for choice. I can't wait.

Books on France, a great 2013 challenge from Emma at Words and Peace

Dreaming of France, a great Monday meme from Paulita at An Accidental Blog

Zoom, zoom!

Sometimes mere blog reading can be expensive. A while ago I was reading Trevor's Birding, an excellent South Australian bird blog. He had an interesting page on bird photography, which linked to another page at birding.com about super zoom cameras. I don't know anything about cameras, or photography really, so I set Mr Wicker on to it. Very soon a Canon SX50HS arrived at our place. 

I've been trying it out recently at local wetlands. It takes some cool photos. Even on rather automatic settings, and at full zoom (equivalent to 1200 mm, not further zoomed on the computer, no need!). 

Little pied cormorant (Microcarbo melanoleucos)

Taken from this spot (nonzoomed, equivalent to 24 mm)

That's the cormorants log in the middle there!

I know this isn't a great photo, but to again show the zoom capabilities, which I think are outstanding. My photos will get better. I hope. 

Pacific Black Duck- Anas superciliosa

You can almost see the ducks as specks at the far side of the water

These photos were also taken across the pond.

A family of Masked Lapwing (Vanellus miles)
You can even see the spurs on the wings
of the one standing on the left

The lapwings, with some diving Grey Teal (Anas gracilis)
without my camera I wouldn't have seen that there were
two species of ducks there today

I know it's just another Pacific Black Duck, but I think it's a cool shot
I need duck size birds to practice on

Saturday Snapshot, is a wonderful weekly meme from at home with books

The Fire-Eaters

I just love finding great new authors that you've never really heard of before. I started to know of David Almond a year or two ago, but hadn't had a chance to read him before I picked up The Fire-Eaters recently. I often find when the name and the cover of a book don't really appeal, sometimes it's good to read it anyway, even if somewhat begrudgingly, as often it's a great revelation.

The Fire-Eaters is an oddly engaging story written about a summer and autumn in Northern England. It's not just any ordinary late summer though. It's 1962, and everyone is consumed with thoughts and fears of the Cuban Missile Crisis and the ever present threat of nuclear war. I thought David Almond did an amazing job of conveying the uncertainty, fear and despair that the people were going through. They thought that nuclear war was about to start. That really came through in the story. The kids were spooked, the adults were too. Not the usual cheery subjects, or style, of children's literature.

Then I lay in bed and dreamed again and the blankets became chains and my sleep was a great writhing and struggling to break free.

The Fire-Eaters is set in the small coastal community of Keely Bay, near Newcastle. Bobby Burns lives near the beach in a modest house, that is probably run down. The Spink family live nearby. Their mother has died recently and all the children help their father gather sea coal to fund their rather marginal, but reasonably happy existence.  Bobby meets McNulty on page one- a mysterious figure, he is a strong man and fire-eater busking at the market in Newcastle when Bobby visits with his mother one Sunday morning. There is a clear malevolence and history surrounding McNulty.

He was wrapped in chains. He writhed and jerked and struggled on the cobbles.
'Look at him,' she said. 'The poor soul.'

And what of the new boy who has moved in to Keely Bay with his family? Will he be a friend, or another new threat? The children also face more real and immediate dramas at their new high school. The changing weather is also used to represent the changing political climate.

All that sense that things is doomed and all that gathering scariness.

It was ultimately quite a political, yet even a hopeful book. Bobby asks his father:

'Is it always right to protest,' I said, 'even if you think it's hopeless?'

I actually made two starts at reading The Fire-Eaters. The first time I tried it clearly wasn't the right time for me. I made a tentative start, and was a bit put off early on. I only read two chapters then, and there was something of the malevolence of McNulty that reminded me of The Changeover, which I hadn't really liked. So I set it aside while I finished The Coral Island. Happily when I picked up The Fire-Eaters again I fell under David Almond's thrall quite quickly. I really enjoyed his writing. I love his use of the Northern England dialect, all that owt and nowt and bairns. Bobby's family mix jam into their rice pudding! How good does that sound? Definitely something to try this winter. I love rice pudding but had never thought of combining it with jam.

There's a quote from The Sunday Telegraph on the back cover of my library copy:

One of these days, someone is going to notice that David Almond has been kidnapped by children's publishing and demand him back for adults.

That pretty much sums it up for me. I'm looking forward to reading much more of his work. The Fire-Eaters is certainly one that would repay rereading.

206/1001

France

I'm a great fan of Horrible Histories on the tele. There are many, many books of course, and like most things the books came first. I haven't read all that many of the books. I read Gorgeous Georgians last year and loved it. As more research for my upcoming Continental Grand Tour I've just read France, even though I was more than slightly outraged at Terry Deary's recent comments about libraries. 

I didn't love France as much as Gorgeous Georgians. Perhaps it was familiarity with content to some extent. I found the early parts about France in the Dark and Middle Ages to be quite confusing. Of course Horrible Histories doesn't always try and present a cogent, linear narrative of history- they are too busy chronicling the terrible, grisly deaths of many of our forebears. And that's ok to get kids interested and reading history- which is what the series has achieved, but if you are trying to understand the history not just find an assortment of gross facts then it may not be what you are after.

Still, I think it did put the French Revolution in some context for me. Even though I studied the French Revolution in my own personal Dark Ages of High School, I'm not sure that I remember all that much from those studies. Of course I've learnt some things as an adult which helps. France helped me realise that in the 1000 years leading up to the revolution of 1789 the French people had lead a very marginal existence with poor diets, too many taxes, and often being killed in droves by soldiers. Rich kings and starving peasants had been the norm for centuries. There were flour wars in 1775. Which perhaps helps explain the rather extreme laws regarding bakeries to this day in France- bakeries are regulated so that they can't all be closed in a particular area, they are also given a schedule as to when they can close for holidays.

France did of course also present many interesting facts. Here are some of my favourites. 

In the Middle Ages the French made a sport of catching young swans.

Joan of Arc didn't defeat the English, but she united the French, and the English never recovered from the defeats they suffered at her army's hands. 

Charles VI (1368- 1422) really was quite mad, among other things he imagined that he was made of glass, and had steel rods put into his clothes so he wouldn't shatter if he fell over. At one time he was treated with 250 oranges, and apparently this cured him for a while. I've come across fascinating snippets about Charles before. I must find out more about him. 

Francis I (1494-1547) was quite the patron of the arts. He acquired the Mona Lisa from Leonardo da Vinci. France claims that he hung it in his bathroom. I'd forgotten about the Leonardo- France connection despite accidentally finding an exhibition about him when we toured the Loire in 1998, and having walked the double helix staircase at Chambord that is attributed to him. 

Marie de Medici wore the most expensive dress in history. Worth 10 million pounds today, it had 3,000 diamonds and 39,000 pearls. She wore it once.

Picture source

I imagine that it was this one, her coronation dress, worn on 13 May 1610 at St Denis (I'll be going there!). What a week that must have been. Crowned Queen of France one day. Her husband assassinated the next day, and she then became regent until her eldest son Louis XIII came of age. 

France banned tobacco sales in 1635! Seems it's true. 

Louis XIV adopted wigs because he was bald, and heels because he was short. 

The French helped the American people to rebel against the English. 

Louis XVI helped advise Dr Joseph Guillotin with his terrible invention. Later Louis XVI's neck was too fat to be killed swiftly at the guillotine. This seems surprising as he had been imprisoned for some time before his death, and even if he had a fat neck I would have thought that a period of imprisonment would have corrected that. 

Napoleon sold off the land in the Louisiana Purchase to America in 1803 to raise money for a war against the British. Napoleon may have been killed by arsenic poisoning. 

Madame Tussaud was a real person (I had never thought about that) who made wax masks from the severed heads filling guillotine baskets. Her page on wiki is quite fascinating.

Somewhat controversially I think France claims that the Eiffel Tower was built for the 100th anniversary of the Revolution, and that her 289 metre height was in reference to the date of the revolution. Would Gustave Eiffel have designed his famous tower in metres in the 1880s? I can see that the 1889 World's Fair/ Exposition Universelle was held in France as a centenary event, but I'm just not sure about the height having any deeper meaning. Further research is required I think. 

Books on France, a great 2013 challenge from Emma at Words and Peace

Dreaming of France, a great Monday meme from Paulita at An Accidental Blog

My Meat Free Week

Last week I participated in Meat Free Week, an Australia wide initiative to get people thinking about where their meat comes from. I mainly did it as a show of support for my 12 year old son who became an ethical vegetarian last year. But also as a bit of a culinary adventure.

I'd first seen it promoted in a weekend newspaper back in February. I will admit to some Sunday night nerves the day before it started. What would I cook? Would I last the distance? I'd been eating quite a bit of fish this year, and loving it. I would have been more nervous if I had known that Mr Wicker would join us on our week long adventure...

Breakfast didn't need to change of course!
Plain yoghurt, fruit and 25 gm of muesli

I'd cooked with this once before
it's ok, but I don't really like that it's imported from the UK

Vegetarian spag bol
not as filling as a meat one

Felafel salad for a lunch at home

We took the opportunity to introduce Master Wicker to the local buddhist vegetarian Tawainese place. He was overwhelmed that he could order anything from the menu- although of course 12 year olds, even 12 year old vegetarians rarely like mushrooms. 

Soy skin drumsticks!
Delicious. 

Dumplings are always good and popular with kids

Pumpkin and pesto quiche
Lunch with a friend at Cafe Espresso

Vegetarian pizza was simple enough for our weekly family pizza and movie night

Felafel platter at the UB 

Zucchini and corn fritters for the Sunday night finale

We all lasted the distance and it was pretty easy as it turned out. The vegetarian restaurant was probably the highlight of Master Wickers week, he's keen to go back. I enjoyed it all well enough, and will keep trying new veggie dishes. This week Master Wicker tried the Quorn Southern Style Burgers (ie fake chicken burgers) they were pretty good actually, and better than the mince I think.

Saturday Snapshot, is a wonderful weekly meme from at home with books

The Coral Island

I didn't know all that much about The Coral Island before I read it recently. It certainly isn't a book I would have come to without my 1001 quest. The Coral Island was published in 1857 and has not been out of print since. A rather important book it influenced later books such as Treasure Island and Lord of the Flies.

The Coral Island tells the tale of three young men. Fifteen year old Ralph Rover, who is our first person narrator, 13 year old Peterkin Gay and Jack Martin, 18, who becomes the leader of the group after they are shipwrecked together on a remote coral island in the South Pacific within the first two chapters of the book.

Shipwrecks have become a common storyline, so much so that they are their own genre- Robinsonade- derived from Robinson Crusoe of course- sadly I can't link to my review, as I stalled half way through my reading a year ago, The Black Stallion, Kensuke's Kingdom. The Cay. A robinsonade is generally not my favourite storyline I think, although I did enjoy those three newer shipwreck survival tales.

I found the first half of The Coral Island to be pretty slow going actually- the story of the initial shipwreck happens quite early, but then the rather gentle pace of the boys establishing their home base on the island, learning where to find the rather plentiful food available to them- they dive for oysters, octopus and fish in their Water Garden, hunt pigs and ducks, and make use of the myriad edible plants- coconuts, taro, yams, breadfruit, plantains, plums and apples. The trees also provide materials for their boat-building exploits and they make use of candlenuts as candles, all described in far too much detail IMHO.

But the action really picks up about half way through- tsunamis, a dreadful storm, run ins with cannibals and pirates. Indeed the second half of the book is often a rather gruesome, bloodthirsty affair. The gore is counterbalanced with a clear Christian message. From early on we realise that Ralph was sent to sea with his Bible as company.

My mother gave me her blessing and small Bible; and her last request was, that I would never forget to read a chapter every day, and say my prayers, which I promised, with tears in my eyes, that I would certainly do. 

In the early weeks after their shipwreck the boys count the days so that they know which day is Sunday, in the same way as Robinson Crusoe actually. The spread of the civilizing force of Christianity through missionaries is a powerful message in the second half of the book.

R.M Ballantyne was a rather prolific author, writing over 100 books for children. His works were generally books of high adventure written for boys, based on his own adventures and experiences. Ballantyne lived and worked in Canada as a young man and used this experience of the world when he started to create exciting adventure stories for boys. It is said that because of an inaccuracy about the opening of coconuts in The Coral Island that Ballantyne then travelled extensively to ensure the accuracy of his later books. I should have thought a massive island filled with many species of penguins in a tropical clime was a bigger error than a slight misunderstanding of the intricacies of opening a coconut! Otherwise I quite marveled at this 19th century Scot creating a plausible South Sea paradise. 

In 1967 Ballantyne biographer Eric Quayle was able to write

"It is seldom that one meets a man who has not, in his youth, read at least one of Ballantyne's adventure tales. To most of the Fathers and Grandfathers of today, there must still cling around the name of this nineteenth-century author the golden fragrance of the coral islands of their youth..."

Sadly, I don't think that this is the case any longer. My area library system doesn't even have any Ballantyne books in their catalogue. However many of his books still live on electronically and are available as free etexts. Although it seems he still garners young male fans- two American teenagers set up a fan site Ballantynethebrave to promote his work to modern boys. 

204/1001

Wondrous Words Wednesday 27/3/13

Wondrous Words Wednesday is a fabulous weekly meme hosted by Bermuda Onion, where we share new (to us) words that we’ve encountered in our weekly reading.  

Today's words come from my recent reading of Howards End is on the Landing. A fabulous book, with a wonderful rich vocabulary- some of which I already knew- gloaming, liturgy and peripatetic, but many more that were new to me. So much so that they fill two Wondrous Words posts.

1. Trenchant (Adjective)

2. Mordant (Adjective)

What makes it of greater importance is her trenchant eye, her detached and sometimes mordant vision of these well-meaning, fumbling people at odds with so much of life. 

1. Trenchant

i) Forceful, effective and vigorous

ii) Caustic; cutting

iii) Distinct; clear-cut

2. Mordant

i) Biting sarcastic

ii) Incisive and trenchant

iii) Bitingly painful

iv) Serving to fix colors in dyeing. 

3. Dingle (Noun)

The sun went down in glory behind the dingle but still the work of love went on through the twilight and into the dusk until the moon rose full and splendid. 

A small wooded valley; a dell. 

A New Zealand dingle from our recent trip
Pupu Springs

4. Tyro (Noun)

I have no idea in whose house the smart drinks party was held or out of whose kindness I was invited as a tyro novelist cum undergraduate. 

A novice or beginner. 

To prove my lack of learning, I included this word in a WWW post less than two years ago. Perhaps I'll remember it now?

5. Ratiocinative (Adjective)

The very male, ratiocinative, intellectual atmosphere of Bloomsbury, and especially of the Apostles, is not attractive. 

Of, relating to, marked by, or skilled in methodical and logical reasoning. 

6. Bagatelle (Noun)

Yesterday I went to a drawer I open only a couple of times a year because it contains nothing but a pile of hooks for suspending Christmas tree baubles, the spare bagatelle balls, and a box of matches, which was what I came in search of.

i) An unimportant or insignificant thing; a trifle. 

ii) A short, light piece of verse or music.

iii) A game played on an oblong table with a cue and balls. 

Picture source

All definitions today from thefreedictionary.com